Philipponnat Brut Champagne Clos des Goisses 2009

96 points Jasper Morris, MW (Inside Burgundy): “The most introverted 2009 vintage release to date! Lemony-toasty fruit and bitter, dry extract coating the palate. Structured, fleshy (rather than rich), and immensely long, despatch this wine to the back of your cellar for another decade (you will be rewarded). Drink from 2030-2048. Tasted: December 2022.”

93-96 points Essi Avellan, MW: “This sumptuous Clos des Goisses is so, so fruity. On the nose the overt and exotic appley and peachy fruitiness is complemented by a stylish savoury note with perky spicy nuances and sweet pastry complexity. The palate is caressingly soft with the finest, gentle and perfectly integrated mousse. There is genuine charm here already now but it is built to last, with round, full, fruity power carrying the generous palate. (Sep 2021)”

94 points Tyson Stelzer (The Champagne Guide): “(disgorged March 2018; 39% chardonnay, 61% pinot noir; 37% fermented and aged in oak barrels; no malolactic fermentation;
aged 9 years on lees; 4.25g/L dosage; 19,805 bottles). Philipponnat is astute in rolling out its barrels to suit the season, pulling back from 73–75% oak fermentation in 2007 and 2008 to a restrained 37% in the presence of the 2009 harvest. With a gold tint to its medium straw hue, the grand power and volume of this ripe harvest make for a cuvée of thundering proportions. Generous, mature yellow fruits jostle with the roast nut character of barrel fermentation. This warm season furnished low levels of gentle malic acidity, hence its definition owes more to the fine chalk minerality of the site. It’s inimitable Clos des Goisses of other-worldly dimensions. (2020-2021)”

94 points John Gilman (View From the Cellar): “The very, very fine 2009 Clos des Goisses is more typical of what one expects from this wine in its youth, as the nose is far more reserved out of the blocks than the 2010 version. This wine was disgorged in March of 2018 and the cépages of sixty-one percent pinot noir and thirty-nine percent chardonnay (a two-thirds pinot to one-third chardonnay blend is the goal here most years). The 2009 is nicely primary on the nose, offering up scents of pear, lovely red fruit tones, macadamia nut, a lovely base of soil, gentle smokiness and incipient notes of white flowers in the upper register. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and nascently complex, with a rock solid core, lovely focus and grip, refined bubbles and outstanding length on the balanced and very promising finish. The palate seems a touch more open than the nose suggests and this wine will probably come forward fairly early for a Clos des Goisses, but will age long and beautifully on its exquisite balance. There is nothing blowsy about this racy 2009! 2025-2075. (May/Jun 2019)”

94 points Wine Spectator: “[$321 list] The flavors of cassis, candied lemon zest, anise and toast point show lovely juiciness in this vibrant Champagne, with pleasing delicacy to the finely knit mousse, crisp acidity and chalk-tinged finish. Elegant. Disgorged March 2018. Drink now through 2029. 1,650 cases made, 133 cases imported. (12/15/19)”

94 points James Suckling: “Super complex and rich, this smells regal with toasted brioche and praline, as well as preserved-lemon, fresh-fig and biscuity notes. The palate is full and round with a chalky core that delivers a long, dry and powerful finish. Drink or hold. (9/3/19)”