Thomas/Paul Sancerre Les Comtesses 2018

91 points John Gilman (View From the Cellar): “Raphaël Thomas now runs the family domaine in Chavignol, having taken over after his father Paul passed away suddenly back in 2000. His les Comtesses bottling is made from twenty-five year-old vines and fermented and raised in stainless steel, with an extended period of aging on its fine lees to add more complexity. The 2018 Comtesses is deep and beautifully inflected with minerality on the nose, wafting from the glass in a mix of lime, green apple, complex Kimmeridgian minerality, gentle botanicals and citrus peel. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and still youthful, with a fine core of fruit, excellent transparency and grip, good acids and a long, complex and promising finish. This is fairly primary in personality today, though already quite tasty, but it will have another layer of complexity emerge with a year or two of bottle age. A fine example. 2020-2030. (May/Jun 2020)”

Importer notes: “Notes of jasmine and almond shine through a mineral driven, slightly creamy texture, with bright undertones of green apple and grapefruit. Perfect as an aperitif and also ideal for fresh oysters, grilled seafood, lemon chicken, or a simple plate of fresh goat cheese and fruit. Aged on the lees until the June following harvest for a richer, more powerful profile.”