Peter Lauer Riesling Biebelhausener Feils Fass 13 GG 2016

93 points David Schildknecht (Vinous): “The source of this wine is the same holdings in the Saarfeilser Marienberg vineyard that have been identified on recent Lauer labels as Schodener Saarfeilser. Site-typical smoke and crushed stone notes share aromatic billing with sea breeze alkalinity, salinity and scents of kelp as well as with licorice and ripe pear. Each time I stick my nose into the glass, I experience something new. The palate is glossy and full but avoids heaviness, and the long finish is sumptuous as well as multifaceted. There are a mere four grams of residual sugar present; however, the wine is anything but austere. I can appreciate someone insisting that it’s also anything but Saar-typical. That is only partly a function of Lauer’s stylistic approach and owes at least as much to the warmth and cobbled soils of this steep riverside site. An explanation of that name change: Because the Saarfeilser slope is spread across three communes – Ayl, Schoden and Wiltingen – there are legal complications. Florian Lauer recently registered the cadaster name ‘Feils,’ but because Ayl and neighboring Biebelhausen technically represent a dual commune and the parcel that informs this wine is technically in Biebelhausen (whose name is not legally affiliated with that of even a single official Einzellage), Lauer’s Feils is now technically a ‘Biebelhausener.’ Drink: 2017-2028. (Mar 2018)”